The saga began one pleasant autumn evening in Berlin, when we packed our backpacks (the last of which was done 3 minutes before we absolutely definitely HAD to leave for the airport), and set off to catch the flight that would bring us the next afternoon to DAR ES SALAAM!!! A few hours of watching in-flight movies, starting to learn Swahili, a short stop in the desert of Qatar and...WE WERE THERE! A bright, white African sun beat down on us as we got out of the airport, walked to the bus-stand and took a daladala (small mini-buses found all over Africa and providing the primary means of public transport over short to medium distances) to the city centre, with great luck found a room available at Jambo Inn, the very first inn on our list, and having dumped our bags in the room, walked out to explore.