A day of baking and swimming, although unfortunately, no corals, and we found we must hire a boat to an island off Kunduchi to get a sight of the coral reef.

That evening, slightly rested and recovered from the sunburn, we decided to walk around the Indian street in search of food. Fortunately (or unfortunately, depending on who’s talking) we found ourselves walking past a crowded Gujarati temple, all lighted up and dressed up for Navratri. So of course Daniel insisted we join the party, and the unfortunate Richa found herself, after years of dodging temples, in the middle of an aarti (prayer) in celebration of Kali (8-armed Hindu goddess of war). Being an honest person, she also feels it incumbent upon her to admit this visit, though she knows it will disappoint and sorrow her wise old father, as rabid an atheist who ever told anti-God-jokes. Things looked up after the aarti, with everyone beautifully dressed in colourful ghaghras and saris, joining in the traditional Gujrati dances of garba and dandiya (danced with sticks).