Dar, although since the 1980s no longer the capital of Tanzania, is the biggest and most important city of the country. Accounting for around 4 million inhabitants, which is approximately the population of Berlin, it still seemed surprisingly small to us. The streets were half empty, we rarely saw a building with more than two stories and the whole atmosphere was that of a provincial town – calm, quiet and no sign of the hustle and bustle the guide books tell you about. We spent nearly a day looking for the city centre before it dawned on us that there was none!